Day 337, October 19th, 2000: Manado, Sulawesi, Indonesia

Paradise Hopping

Schoolkids on Lombok.
Schoolkids on Lombok.

Hello Mister and Missus!!

Already nearly 4 months in Indonesia and still I don't feel like leaving. The last 2 months can be easily summarized as "Paradise hopping".

The porter on a 3 day expidition to Rinjani (Lombok).
The porter on a 3 day expidition to Rinjani (Lombok).

                                                           

Sunset on the first day camping spot. You can see the vulcano on Bali.
Sunset on the first day camping spot. You can see the vulcano on Bali.

It started when I joined an Italian/French expedition to the top of the Rinjani volcano on Lombok.

Like always we were cursing in 3 languages while stumbling at 3 o'clock at night on the steep way to the top. But then there is the reward: another beautiful sunrise plus great view.

Climbing the Rinjani is probably one of the best in Indonesia.

Hotwater waterfall on way down of Rinjani.
Hotwater waterfall on way down of Rinjani.

The team that climbed the Rinjani.
The team that climbed the Rinjani.

                                                           

Men-eating Dragons

Herr Ollie studiert das sehr gefahrliches Dragon.
Herr Ollie studiert das sehr gefahrliches Dragon.

After Rinjani I travelled to Komodo island. This island is famous for it's huge dragons with humans on their menu. On my way there I met a young German and although I wanted to go slowly he persuaded me to go to Komodo in one stretch from Lombok.

The ferry tickets to Komodo they sold us in Lombok turned out to be worthless as the ferry didn't run anymore. So we had to charter a boat ourselves. We negotiated a good price but when we saw the boat it was clear we were still paying too much.

A cheap charter boat.
A cheap charter boat.

During the trip (which turned out to be more than 9 hours instead of the 4 promised) we had to pump the water out all the time. With a little bit of more wind I could have used my "how to survive on sea when your ship has sunk" knowledge. But we arrived save. (A few weeks later I read in the paper that many people arrive completely upset and hysteric on Komodo after these boat trips. The article said mafia is involved in stopping the ferry and "organizing" boat trips).

We were the only guests on the island and already after one night the others (poor people with only 3 weeks of vacation) went back to Lombok leaving me.

Julius, Ron's friend during the lonely days on Komodo island.
Julius, Ron's friend during the lonely days on Komodo island.

So there I was with a couple of men-eating dragons. As there was no ferry and chartering a boat myself to Flores was too expensive I had to wait on new people arriving who I could join to Flores. The right therapy against "travellers burn-out" I guess.

Sitting on the beach on the lookout for ships to arrive. On the fourth day there was a dot on the horizon that became my ship to escape from Komodo. And together with 2 Indonesians and 3 Germans I continued to Flores.

Flores

Seraya Island.
Seraya Island.

There we went first to Seraya island, a tiny little paradise where you cannot do more than eating, snorkeling on a beautiful coral riff, canoeing, playing cards, reading and most of all: sleeping.

Herr Ollie and Ron before the eventfull journey to a 'nearby' island
Herr Ollie and Ron before the eventfull journey to a 'nearby' island

Every day I postponed my leave with another day. But there was an eventful day too when I decided together with Ollie to go with the wooden canoe to a little island we saw. It turned out it was a bit further than expected and on the way back we discovered that wind was against us and had started to make big waves on the sea.

Though the Germans have never really achieved something on the seas Ollie was quite sure that it was wise to sail parallel to the waves. Only when the waves filled our boat and we had to hose water like crazy we changed this strategy. The struggle took long but again we landed save and celebrated our adventure with a beer. Maybe more than one...

The Kelimutu mountain with the collored lakes, Flores.
The Kelimutu mountain with the collored lakes, Flores.

Kelimutu

But then the day came that I had to leave this paradise and a few days of hard traveling followed.

The first bus ride that was supposed to last 5 hours became 10 hours because the driver and his companion had to catch and tie down about 10 pigs on the way.

Flores is an incredible dry island with high mountains of which the Kelimutu with the 3 colored lakes is the most famous. Don't know why I only saw 2 colors but the doctor might be able to explain that. Nevertheless it was an impressive view and a nice stroll down to village of Moni.

Martha and Abdula who were so helpful in Larantuka (Flores).
Martha and Abdula who were so helpful in Larantuka (Flores).

Going further east it seemed I was the only tourist in this area and although that looks nice it is very tiring too as all the Indonesians want to talk with you (in Indonesian).

Privacy does not exist in this country. On the boat from Flores to Sulawesi I was sleeping outside on the deck. When I opened my eyes at 4 o'clock in the morning there were a few Indonesians shouting in my ear:

Teaching and afternoon English in Fort Rotterdam (Ujung Padang).
Teaching and afternoon English in Fort Rotterdam (Ujung Padang).

HELLO MISSUS!!
WHAT IS YOUR NAME??

But I should not complain too much as the Indonesians are in general really friendly and helpful people.

On Sulawesi I started with Toraja, the region known for it's beautiful landscape and the various rituals.

Toraja houses.
Toraja houses.

Especially the funerals are famous as a huge number of buffalos and pigs are killed depending on the status of the dead person. All the money people save during their life is invested in buffalo's for when they die.

Though these people are Christian they believe your journey to heaven is more sure if there is a substantial amount of buffalo's killed.

Playing cards with some weavers where Ron stayed for a day.
Playing cards with some weavers where Ron stayed for a day.

From there I went further north and when I found out that the hotel I wanted to stay was burned down, it became clear that for the first time in Indonesia, I hit an area of trouble. It was in Pendolo, a Christian village where all the Muslim properties have been burned down.

One can never have enough military friends.
One can never have enough military friends.

Indonesians don't like to talk about these things but what I understood is that Christians on the run for violence in Muslim dominated Poso fled to Tentena and Pendolo and did the same to the Muslims there.

Special brigades of police and army control the area and I actually had a good time with one of these brigades when I was waiting for 5 hours on the bus.

Nevertheless the bus ride from Poso to Ampana was absolutely shocking in terms of what is destroyed.

Ron's friends in Kadidiri Paradise.
Ron's friends in Kadidiri Paradise.

Togean Islands

But life goes on and from Ampana I took the boat to the Togean islands. This was one of my best last minute decisions as, after a day on a boat, I arrived in the master of all paradises: Kadidiri island. Fantastic snorkeling and diving there and I met great people. I still don't know why I didn't stay there to the end of my visa, but after a week I left in the direction of Manado, where I am now.

Ron on boat from Togean islands to Gorontalo.
Ron on boat from Togean islands to Gorontalo.

Manado is the city for people that like dogs, rats and bats... Most of the restaurants serve them any way you want.

It is also one of the most organized cities in Indonesia with honest bemo (kind of public taxi) drivers! They actually give you money back when you pay too much!

Tomorrow I'll fly to the Philippines and from there I have no idea. I'll go where the wind takes me...

Reading the story above you might think I am taking many risks, but that is relative. The biggest risk I took the last 2 months was checking the value of my Lucent shares. Luckily I have a strong heart...

Take care,
Ron.